“Banh chung gu” — a must-have dish of Tay ethnic people during Tet

BHG - Every Lunar New Year (Tet), in the villages of the Tay ethnic minority people in Phuong Do Commune (Ha Giang City), the sight of ‘banh chung gu’ (hunchback glutinous rice cake) appears on festive trays and in sacred rituals. This small cake is more than just a rustic dish; it embodies the cultural beauty and traditional values of a community living harmoniously with nature. From the forest-sourced dong leaves to fragrant glutinous rice, everything blends together to create a dish rich in flavour and profound meaning, becoming the soul of the Tay people’s traditional New Year.

The Tay ethnic people typically make banh chung gu during Lunar New Year or major festivals. To ensure delicious cakes, every ingredient is carefully prepared.

Dong leaves are essential for wrapping banh chung gu. The Tay people usually gather these leaves from nearby forests.

A unique aspect of the Tay’s banh chung gu culture is the communal spirit. Families don’t just make cakes for themselves but gather with neighbours to wrap and boil the cakes together.

The glutinous rice used for these cakes is selected from plump, round grains grown on highland fields. Fresh pork belly, with a balanced mix of lean and fat, is marinated with traditional spices including dried shallots, pepper, and a pinch of salt.

It’s a long-standing tradition that around the 28th or 29th day of the 12th lunar month, the stilt house of Nguyen Thi Thuyet’s family in Chang Hamlet, Phuong Do Commune, bustles like a festival. From early morning, neighbours gather to prepare and wrap the cakes together.

The Tay people have a unique way of wrapping banh chung gu, giving it a signature hunchbacked shape. Dong leaves are layered, then glutinous rice is spread evenly, with green bean paste and marinated pork placed in the centre. The cake is then folded skilfully into a pointed triangular shape.

Despite changes brought by modern life, the Tay people still uphold the tradition of making banh chung gu as a way of preserving their culture. Children are taught how to wrap the cakes from a young age, instilling in them an understanding that the cake is not just food but also a symbol of love and gratitude for their roots.

Banh chung gu is boiled using a wood-fired stove. Before boiling, the cakes are soaked for 3–4 hours to absorb enough water, thus ensuring that they cook evenly and become soft and chewy.

As the cakes boil in the pot, with the fire crackling from the wood stove, the festive atmosphere of Tet seems to spread throughout the house.

Once cooked, the cakes are removed, lightly pressed to drain any excess water, and kept neat in their shape.

The finished banh chung gu may have a simple appearance, but its rich flavour and deep meaning are undeniable. For the Tay people, the cake is not only a dish but also an offering to ancestors and a gift to share with family and friends during the Lunar New Year.

NGUYEN YEM - NGUYEN DIU