Yellow blossoms on grey rocks

BHG - Ha Giang Province is not only known for its fragile buckwheat fields swaying in the wind or the purple mint flowers offering sweet nectar but also for the brilliant yellow mustard fields stretching across the high mountains. In the crisp air of the border highlands, the golden hue of the mustard flowers is like a warm flame, a gentle whisper from nature.

‘Cai nuong’ (mustard flowers) — a simple yet beloved name — has been intertwined with the lives of the highland people for generations. Unlike vegetables grown in the lowlands, cai nuong thrive in rocky, mountainous terrain, enduring harsh weather conditions. Just a small amount of rain is enough for the tiny seeds to sprout and grow resiliently, much like the people here. When the season arrives, the mountain slopes transform into a radiant golden carpet. The delicate flowers, with their thin petals, possess an extraordinary vitality. Under the dry sunlight, the mustard blossoms sway in the wind, creating a peaceful yet captivating scene.

A dreamy mustard field along the road in the Stone Plateau.

Highland children love weaving mustard flowers into wreaths to wear around their necks or on their heads, adding a touch of charm. Their pure laughter echoes through the mountains, blending with the slightly pungent yet gentle scent of the flowers. In the early morning, when dew still lingers on the leaves, women head to the fields with their sickles. The tender green mustard plants are neatly harvested and packed into baskets to bring home. Some are prepared into familiar dishes such as mustard soup, stir-fried mustard greens, or boiled mustard greens. Others are pickled, becoming a lightly sour mustard pickle that pairs perfectly with “men men” (steamed cornmeal) or warm rice on a cold day.

Though simple, mustard dishes are an essential flavour in highland meals. In the freezing weather, a bowl of mustard soup with a few slices of spicy ginger brings warmth to the entire family. A plate of boiled mustard greens dipped in chili-infused fish sauce, or a fragrant pan of stir-fried mustard greens all are gifts from nature that have nourished generations in this rugged yet vibrant land.

More than just a source of sustenance, ‘cai nuong’ is a cultural emblem of Ha Giang. The mustard season is also a season of festivals, of bustling markets where people bring baskets of fresh mustard greens to sell, exchanging them for firewood, salt, or a fragrant new dress.

Standing in the endless mustard fields, gazing at the tiny yet resilient golden flowers, one feels an unexpected sense of peace. The mustard season is not just about nature’s golden hue, it is also the colour of abundance, hope, and the simple yet precious joys of life in the rocky highlands.

GIA BAO